Buddha’s Hand

The first time I saw one of these I was mesmerized.  A genetic mutant?  A lemon gone bad? 

It’s a Buddha’s Hand Citron (although this is a quite stubby one – they usually have long “fingers” that reach up into the sky, like a cupped hand reaching to the heavens, ready to catch rainwater in its palm).  Last year I bought one and let it rest on my counter, filling the entire kitchen and house with its unbelievable citrus scents, a natural potpourri of lemony-limeyness.  It eventually rotted, and I threw it out, never having used it in any dishes.

However, the fruit can be used as lemon rind would be, and you can use the pith as well, as it’s not as bitter as a regular lemon’s.

Tonight, I minced a slight slice (about two tablespoons) and mixed it with some other ingredients to make a sort of raita: half Greek yogurt, half sour cream (full fat, both), two tablespoons crumbled Bulgarian feta, two cloves crushed garlic, a teaspoon of minced red onion, two tablespoons minced cucumber, a teaspoon of chopped fresh parsley that I had frozen from the garden, sea salt, and fresh ground pepper.  I served it with a salad of Tokyo bekana (an Asian green from Smallwood’s Veggieporium), sliced red onion and avocado, quinoa and a spicy Hungarian lamb sausage made by Lothar Erbe, a master artisan butcher from Germany who uses local ingredients whenever possible.  Lothar sells at the Smart Market in Purcellville, VA, on Saturdays, entertaining everyone with his “Hanz and Franz” accent and pleasing those who purchase his meats.  This variety is a lamb bratwurst that is called (phonetically) “chibopchichi.”  It is one of my favorites.

The Buddha’s Hand, which likely originated in Northeastern India or China, can also be sliced and used on salads or inserted under the skin of a roaster chicken.  In season in the U.S. from November through January, the fruit in other areas of the world often is given as a religious offering in Buddhist temples.  I have been a student of Buddhism for the past three years, therefore I know that food is diminished in light of nourishing your soul through meditation, in hopes of finding inner strength and enlightenment.  However, searching for these qualities in sources provided by Mother Nature has to be in line with these beliefs.  Expand your horizons and try something new.  You might just discover that peace can be found in the most unpredictable of places.

Butchering 101

For the most part, we as Americans are so far removed from our food sources that we have little knowledge about what it takes to bring meats and produce to our plates.  How many of us have grown our own food?  Or witnessed (other than on a movie or television screen), the slaughtering of an animal for consumption?  We may know the difference between a top round roast and a New York strip, but do we know what part of the animal we’re grilling, braising or roasting?  Apart from the whole chicken or turkey (which many of us just finished cooking for Thanksgiving), or perhaps fish, we do not purchase whole animals from our grocery stores.  We do not require the knowledge of anatomy that it takes to deconstruct a mammal, nor do many of us like to think that we are eating a being that was once living, breathing, and feeding on the land; we prefer to purchase our meat in conveniently pre-packaged cuts wrapped in plastic.

However, humans domesticated animals more than 10,000 years ago, and we’ve been hunting, killing and eating them for much longer.  And it wasn’t too long ago that many of our relatives had to slaughter their own animals to feed their families or communities.  Many cultures and societies still do this (one day I will recount my experience of watching friends slaughter chickens in Zimbabwe).  Growing and processing food develops within us more of an appreciation for our meals, and we should all strive to learn a little about where our food comes from – how it is grown and raised, what it is fed, how it lived and died.

Until recently, I had not chosen to be involved with the butchering of a whole animal (I had seen a former neighbor dismantle a deer in the back of his pickup and had squeamishly declined to watch him process a whole goose a friend had given me).  That is until Derek and Amanda Luhowiak, owners and operators of Local Sixfortyseven, a mobile farm-to-fork kitchen, invited friends over to process a 51 pound lamb.  (Side note:  Derek and Amanda pull their “food cart” to farmers’ markets, wineries, and special events around Virginia’s Fauquier, Frederick, Loudoun and Fairfax counties.  All of their food is locally and sustainably sourced – even down to the ketchup on the beef burger – and they were recently finalists in the best food cart competition on Good Morning America Weekend.)  That morning, Derek picked up the lamb from Fauquier’s Finest Butcher Shop, where it had been “dressed”:  the head, feet, skin, innards and some fat had been removed. 

Derek peeks into the cavity, checking for cleanliness and...

...GOODIES! Kidneys, heart and liver.

We got to work quickly, using a bonesaw (similar to a hacksaw but the teeth are larger and deeper) to break down the beast into its primal and sub-primal cuts.  The primal cuts include the shoulder, rack, loin and leg, and the sub-primals include the neck, foreshank, breast and flank.

The neck has been removed, and Derek cuts into the spine where the tenderloins end.

After breaking the animal down into primal and sub-primal cuts, we proceeded to cut and trim those pieces into smaller, more manageable cuts.   

Splitting the hind quarters. (Photo by Amanda Luhowiak)

Removing the hip from the leg. (Photo by Amanda Luhowiak)

Several of the larger cuts, including the ribs and shanks.

Two Barnsley chops, taken from the loin (or saddle) area of the lamb. This is a "double" chop that is more common in Britain than the U.S.

We also produced stew meat and ground lamb that we made into sausage and patties.  We aimed for about 30% fat content in the ground meat.  We cut the shoulders, one leg and many of the trimmings into large chunks, and Derek mixed in an amazing spice paste, similar to ras el hanout, that he had made.  Then the meat was sent to the freezer to rest and chill before grinding.  In order to prevent a “mealy” or coarse texture in the sausage, it is best to chill the meat so the fat does not begin to separate during grinding.

Derek grinds the meat for sausages.

Using the 85 pound meat grinder to produce spiced ground lamb.

Carefully turning the sausage stuffer - it's not easy trying to get the correct amount of meat moving through consistently! (Photo by Amanda Luhowiak)

Derek turns the giant sausage into individual 4-5 inch portions. Extra air in the casing is removed by poking it with a sharp object.

The finished product.

When everything was said and done, we had spent approximately four hours from whole lamb to final cuts and products.  From a 51 pound lamb, we estimated that we got 41 pounds of meat.  Not bad for a half day’s work!  The major reward?  Derek cooked up some fiery lamb curry, and we enjoyed some IPAs and great conversation to end the evening. 

Fiery lamb curry stewing away on the stove.

One of the best curries I've ever eaten!

If you are interested in learning how to butcher different animals, Derek and Amanda plan on hosting more events such as this.  Join the Local Sixfortyseven Facebook group for more information.  Thank you guys for an amazing experience!

The Common Market

On a recent cold, rainy day, I had the opportunity to get to Frederick, MD, to visit The Common Market, one of a very few co-op markets operating in the area.  The Common Market, which has been in existence for more than 30 years, sits as an anchor in a rather commonplace strip mall (Evergreen Square, 5728 Buckeystown Pike).  But once you walk through the doors you realize that the inside is much more warm and welcoming than its plain exterior might lead you to believe.  As you enter into the produce section, you are bombarded by color and energy emanating from the fruits and vegetables, most of which come from farms within a 150 mile radius (and most under 100 miles).

As you pass by the produce, you’ll find a bulk foods section with everything from flours to nuts to beans to granolas to sugars (and I found hominy!).

The dairy, cheese, seafood, meat, bread, and grocery sections are all stocked with natural, organic and local items, many of which cannot be found in other natural food stores or even larger chains such as Whole Foods.  (And more types of yogurt than I’ve ever seen assembled in one place!)

The Common Market also creates and offers prepared foods to eat in its small cafe area or for take out.

To find out more about The Common Market, including information about becoming an owner, check out http://www.commonmarket.coop/, and if you’re ever in the area, definitely check it out!

Girasole Truffles

If only this site had smell-o-vision…

Fava bean puree and foie gras crostini with white truffle oil.

 A surprise amuse bouche from Chef Lou Patierno

Carpaccio di Carne al Tartufo Bianco

Carpaccio of Angus Beef and Micro Greens & Shaved White Truffles, served with Vajra Nebbiolo della Langhe 2007 

Tortellini della Casa Ripieni con Carne e Porcini e Tartufo Bianco

Beef & Chicken Tortellini in Porcini Brodo & Shaved White Truffles, served with Vajra Dolcetto Coste & Fossati 2007

Insalata Verde Nostrana

Local Mixed Greens, Artisan Olive Oil & Crostini, served with Vajra Langhe Bianco 2008

Risotto alla Piemontese con Tartufo Bianco

Piemontese Carnaroli Risotto & Shaved White Truffles, served with Vajra Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2006

Petto di Pollo Saltato con Tatrufo Bianco e Vedure

Pastured Chicken Breast over Winter Vegetable & Shaved White Truffles, served with Vajra Barolo 2003

Crostata di Nicciola con Miele e Gelato al Tartufo

  Hazelnut Torte & Honey-Truffle Gelato

A surprise treat from Chef Lou

Wines from G.D. Vajra

The stars of the evening: Guiseppe Vajra and Chef Lou Patierno

The company and atmosphere were wonderful, and the food and wine were divine.  Thank you to everyone at Girasole and Vajra who made this such a memorable experience for all of us who attended.

Girasole Piemontese Truffle Dinner

Okay, okay.  So this isn’t exactly local, but it’s about as close to Italy as you can get without packing your passport and purchasing a plane ticket.  Girasole restaurant in The Plains, VA, is hosting its annual truffle dinner on Sunday, November 8, and lucky for you, there are a few reservations left. 

About 1/2 kilo of Italian white truffles, worth approximately $3,000.

If you’ve never experienced fresh truffles (and these are fresh, overnighted earlier this week from Italy), you don’t know what you’re missing.  Truffles, which grow at the base of trees and are secretly collected at night using trained dogs or pigs, are intoxicatingly aromatic but difficult to describe.  Sweet and earthy.  Odd yet comforting.  If Mother Nature were spritzing passersby at a mall perfume counter with her signature scent, you’d walk away smelling of truffle.  While for some they are an acquired taste, for those who love them, truffles can be an addiction. 

A certificate signed by the truffle hunter ... and his dog.

Each of the six courses, including dessert, features white truffles from the Monchiero municipality in Italy’s Piedmont region.  Chef Lou Patierno brings his love of Italian cuisine and passion for truffles to the dishes, including beef and chicken tortellini in porcini broth and his famous Piemontese carnaroli risotto, both with shaved white truffles.  Each course is paired with organic wines from G.D. Vajra, and Giuseppe Vajra will be on hand to share his vibrant personality and stories of growing up in the Italian countryside.  Many of the non-Italian ingredients for the meal come from local farms, including Ayrshire Farm, Over the Grass Farm, Martin’s Angus Beef, and Wisteria Gardens.

Chef Lou Patierno looks lovingly upon his bounty.

To learn more about Chef Patierno, Girasole, and his other restaurant, Panino, in Manassas, VA, visit http://www.girasole-panino.com/.  To view the complete menu and details of the dinner, click here.  Call 540-253-5501 for reservations.

Girasole dining room

Annie’s Bistro Francais

5 West Washington Street, Middleburg, VA 20117 540-687-4754

French home cooking in the heart of Hunt Country.  That is what Carole Robert and Mark Manly offer residents and visitors to Annie’s Bistro Francais, located on Main Street (Route 50) in Middleburg, VA.  Annie was Carole’s mother, who was killed in a car accident shortly before she turned 40.  Mark and Carole opened the restaurant over a year ago, making a promise to themselves that they would only serve food that comes from local farmers, which they do whenever possible.  Known in the community for her excellent soups and salads (definitely try the chicken and shrimp salads), Carole, the head chef, is a native Parisien who grew up in a family that cherished the ties between humans, animals and the soil.  She spent summers working on her grandparents’ farm in La-Charitie-Sur-Loire, smack dab in the middle of France.  When asked, she says that she “hated” working on the farm, because, “well, it’s hard work, especially when you are a kid and all of your friends are back in the city, shopping and hanging out!” 

One thing about Carole:  she is animated and passionate.  She is a petite woman with dark brown skin and long black hair, on her head constantly perched her big, dark sunglasses.  I had dinner with them recently (and was served the most amazing paella), and peppered Carole with questions about why she insists on using so much local food, when purchasing it from a large supplier would help her pocketbook.

Carole in her home kitchen preparing a divine paella.

“We’re going to be poor until people realize they need to make the [expletive] change!”  she fires back.  I should mention here that Carole is a three-time breast cancer survivor.  She knows something about health and living, and she is also not afraid to tell you like it is.  “I’ve had cancer three times.  My mother died very young.  You never know when life will end.  We’re trying to prove a point and make a difference.  We’re here next to the farmers to support them,” she says, adding, “People think I’m crazy – they don’t get it.  People don’t know how to be happy.  They don’t even know how to taste food, REAL food.”  Carole is a strong believer in serving her customers only the best, freshest, and whenever possible, most local food.  “We will start winning this battle with food,” she says, “because otherwise people will start dying.”

The cozy dining room at Annie's.

When they first started, Mark and Carole traveled throughout the region every morning picking up ingredients, including herbs, chickens, fresh ground pork and baguettes.  Now, after a year, they have established relationships with many local farmers and do not have to travel so far each day.  Much of their produce, goat cheese and meat comes from Grandma Honey’s Pantry, a Pennsylvania farmer who sells her wares at the Archwood Green Barns in The Plains, VA on Sundays during the spring and summer seasons.  They also purchase herbs, tomatoes and fruits from Sally Bolton of the Vineyard Nursery in The Plains and Edward Strother of Valley View Farm/Virginia Perfection Orchard in Delaplane, VA.  The 280 baguettes that they use are drop shipped to them twice a week from a bakery in Hagerstown, MD.  Carole says that their inventory turns over every 48 hours – nothing is kept for very long to ensure that the freshest food is being served to customers.

So I mentioned the paella.  Paella?  That’s a Spanish dish.  “Oh, no!,” Carole informed me.  “When we were growing up, we had a huge family, and when people would get together, we would cook paella (she says ‘pie-ella’) because we had access to fresh seafood and great rice.  People in Paris, the food in Paris is very influenced by all kinds of cultures, the Spanish, African, you know, it’s like a melting pot of food!”  (Check out The Ethnic Paris Cookbook)  And influenced they are.  Carole has seven, yes, SEVEN, cousins who own restaurants around the world.  Fortunately, one of them landed in our backyard.

Visit Annie’s Bistro seven days a week, 11am – 6pm (closed Thanksgiving and Christmas days).  Follow them on Facebook at Annie’s Middleburg for daily updates on specials.  Also, they are awaiting word (any day now!) from the Virginia ABC and plan to be open in the evenings until 10pm beginning in the next few weeks.  Mark and Carole have been busy putting together an excellent wine list – affordable, drinkable, enjoyable.  Annie’s is the perfect place to sit and enjoy company in a relaxed atmosphere.

Overheard

Sometimes when I’m out and about, I overhear or participate in interesting conversations about food, eating habits, food-related illnesses, cooking, nutrition, farming, grocery shopping or other nourishment-related topics.  Here are some from an unexpected road trip I took last week with one of my best friends from college.

On the tram in the Atlanta Airport on my way to my departure gate.  Two airport employees step on pushing four wheelchairs between them (not an easy feat!).  Both of them are African American.  The male is probably in his mid-30s and the woman is most likely upper-40s.  The man was very energetic – one of those people who is constantly happy and asking questions and knows everyone.  The woman was a little more reserved - she was missing a tooth and looked as though she had lived a difficult life, but was wiser for it.

Man:  So, whatchu gonna cook?

Woman:  For Thanksgiving?

M:  Yeah.

W:  I’m gonna do a cornish hen, but I’m gonna do it on Tuesday.

M:  What else?  Dressing?  Mashed potatoes?  String beans?

W:  Yeah, ‘cept I got me some broad beans.

M:  What’s that?

W:  You know, they’re bigger than string beans.

M:  You gotta peel ‘em?

W:  Yeah, yeah, those the ones.  I gotta see ’bout some macaroni and cheese.  Maybe put some broccoli in there.

This short conversation was punctuated by a lot of animated movements: arms, eyes, lips, shifting weight on the legs.  And it was short, all of 20 seconds before we got to our destination.  I wondered about the younger man’s questioning motives.  Was he that curious?  Was he just trying to make small talk?  How did the topic of Thanksgiving dinner arise in late October on a Wednesday night?  Would white people be having the same type of conversation (certainly not with such animation and interest and thought, I thought)? 

Shortly after I arrived at my gate, I realized I was starving and was forced, once again on this trip, to resort to fast food.  I scouted out a (ick) Quiznos for a quick salad, and while I was waiting for my meal, another airport employee, a black man, came through the line and ordered his sandwich.  He was speaking very clearly, making sure to repeat exactly what it was he wanted on the sub, but he certainly had an accent.  He got up to the cashier, an African-American woman.

Woman:  Is that it?

Man:  (seemingly confused)  Are you addressing me?

W:  Yes, is that it?

M:  Yes, no mayo or anything.  Just meat, lettuce, tomato, jalapenos.  Nothing else.  Just that on the sandwich.  Just the sandwich.

W:  (looking puzzled, slightly annoyed, and directly at me)  Okay.

M:  (to no one in particular)  I hate ordering food in the U.S.  People always look at me like I’m crazy.  I’m getting used to it, but it’s not easy.  I say exactly what I want and they stare at me.

Me:  Where are you from?  (I figured the islands, but I hate to assume.)

M:  Jamaica.  I just got here and I don’t like ordering food.

Me:  I know.  And it’s not always easy.

M:  No.  And I do it every day.  But I like to cook at home.

Me:  Me too. 

I got my order, and we told each other to take care, each of us honestly meaning it.  It’s not often that you can relate to someone from a completely different culture as your own, but I felt for this man, as he proceeded on his life journey into the unknown world of U.S. fast food.  I was right there with him in his disdain, confusion and hatred of the process.  We had different reasons, of course, but sometimes reasons don’t matter.  It’s the emotion that connects people.

Gunpowder Bison & Trading Company

Last week I had the opportunity to visit Gunpowder Bison & Trading Company, located in Monkton, MD, north of Baltimore on I-83.  The property, located near the Pennsylvania border, is gorgeous, particularly this time of the year.  Bison meat, sometimes mistakenly referred to as buffalo, is a healthy red-meat alternative to beef (as well as chicken and pork), as it is lower in calories, fat, and cholesterol, and higher in iron and vitamin B12.  Its flavor is similar to beef, and some people may not even recognize a difference in taste. 

The bison at Gunpowder are pastured and raised naturally, without the use of hormones or antibiotics.  The business is owned and operated by Trey and Angela Lewis, who have a desire to be good stewards of the land.  Trey grew up where he now lives and raises the bison.  “He always wanted to be a farmer as a little kid,” Angela said, adding that they have been in business now for about five years.  Over that time, they have grown from a few head of bison to nearly 200 today, and their meat can be found on the menus of restaurants throughout the Baltimore metropolitan area.  At a recent farmers market in Towson, MD, Patrick Russell, owner of the 2-month-old Kooper’s Chowhound Burger Wagon, as well as several restaurants in Baltimore, said that the Gunpowder Bison burger that they serve is “one of the most popular.”

Bison at Gunpowder Bison & Trading Company

Gunpowder Bison’s selections include dry-aged steaks, roasts, ground meat, burgers, sausages, as well as pet and other products.  Company representatives Matthew and John can be found selling their wares at many of the farmers markets in the area (click here for a listing).  In addition, there is a store on the ranch, which is open Wednesday through Sunday from 11am to 6pm, and they ship products nationwide every Tuesday.  Visitors to the ranch are welcome during business hours to see the animals and explore the extensive assortment of bison-related products in the store. 

Some bison facts:

• Bison can sprint as fast as 35 mph and jump as high as five feet.
• Bison and buffalo are actually two distinct animals.  Gunpowder raises North American bison.
• There are several publicly maintained bison herds in the United States (Yellowstone National Park; Custer State Park, SD; Henry Mountains, UT; Wind Cave National Park, SD).
• Bison were hunted to near extinction in the mid-19th century, when only a few hundred of the animals remained.  Today, it is estimated that between 15,000-40,000 wild bison roam in protected herds, and another 250,000 are raised on private land.
• In 2005, 35,000 buffalo were processed for consumption in the United States, compared with more than 32 million cattle.

If you don’t already know the health benefits and tasty goodness of bison, check out Gunpowder Bison & Trading Company (follow them on Facebook for specials), or ask your favorite restaurant to contact them today!

‘You cannot regulate integrity.’

I finally had the opportunity last night to attend a viewing of Food, Inc.   The film is a disconcerting look at what our food system has become in America, and in reality, worldwide.  It uncovers disheartening scenes of animals being treated like bags of trash, thrown, tossed, pushed, crushed, crowded and stuffed, all in the name of food.  But what these animals become – in some cases small nuggets of ammonia-washed meat “filler” – is less than food.  We have been duped in the name of capitalism into consuming items that simply fill our stomachs, provide absolutely no nutritional value and harm our health, environment, society and culture.  We are making ourselves ill by trying to survive.

So what do we do?  This is like any other revolutionary change that has occurred in our nation’s history.  The change that we seek comes from the bottom up.  Consumers – US – we must demand change occur among our nation’s food suppliers.  Shop at your local farmers market, even if you only spend $10 there a week.  Avoid fast food.  Read food labels and only purchase items that contain ingredients that you can recognize (much less pronounce).  When you do go to the grocery, purchase only those items that are in season, that are grown locally or that travelled the least distance. 

Joel Salatin, Polyface Farms

Joel Salatin, owner of Polyface Farms in Swoope, VA, and who is profiled in Food, Inc., was in attendance last night for a question and answer session following the film.  “We need to be willing to say that in our country there is evil and righteousness,” he said, referring to the large companies, such as Monsanto, Tyson, Purdue, McDonald’s, that have a stranglehold on our food system as evil and those of us who are trying to make a difference as righteous.  “You cannot regulate integrity,” he said, lamenting the lack of enforcement of safety standards by the FDA, USDA and the federal government as a whole.  However, he added, “All the regulations in the world cannot ensure honesty and integrity.”  We make food choices every day.  Step by step, one by one, we can each begin making the right decisions and return integrity to our foodways and health to our citizens.

Watch the trailer, and please, if you have a chance, watch this film.

Day One

Food is an important part of life.  It nourishes, provides the energy to breath, walk, speak, feel.  We all need food to help us through our daily lives, and food gives to us, unquestioning.  However, we can sometimes ignore what food has to offer us, what it does for us.  We become mindless in our eating, consuming items that have no recognizable ingredients.  What is food, then?  It is here that we explore food, and the people, places, plants and animals that sustain us, allow us to live to our fullest.  This is meant to be a celebration and a place of recognition for those who are helping us recapture our roots as a farming nation.  Enjoy the journey and appreciate your next meal.